This Sunday’s field visit took me to the confluence of the Teesta and Karala rivers near Jalpaiguri, a landscape where two rivers with very different journeys finally come together.
After descending from the Himalayas, the Teesta enters the plains near Sevoke and flows for nearly 123 kilometres before crossing into Bangladesh. Along this stretch, several tributaries join the river. On its eastern bank, the Apalchand, Khulnai, Dharla, Baidyadangi, and Koya rivers merge with the Teesta, while from the west the Karala River completes its journey through forests, tea gardens, and the heart of Jalpaiguri town before meeting the Teesta.
At the confluence, the contrast between the two rivers was immediately striking. The Teesta carried its familiar sediment-rich monsoon water, while the Karala, after passing through the town, bore the visible imprint of urban pollution. For some distance, the dark water of the Karala and the muddy flow of the Teesta travelled side by side, separated by a clearly visible line before gradually blending into a single current.
The surrounding embankment revealed another story of seasonal adaptation. Families who had cultivated maize on the exposed riverbed had temporarily moved to higher ground as the river rose. Along the embankment, harvested maize was being dried, sorted, packed into sacks, and prepared for storage. Even the dried maize stalks were carefully kept for use as household fuel. These everyday scenes reflected the resourcefulness of people whose lives continue to adjust to the changing rhythm of the river.
Conversations with local residents also highlighted ongoing discussions about the changing relationship between the Teesta and the Karala. Many believe that, over time, sediment deposition has gradually raised sections of the Teesta’s riverbed. During the monsoon, when the Teesta rises rapidly, some residents feel that this slows the flow of the Karala near the confluence and contributes to waterlogging in parts of Jalpaiguri. Others, however, interpret the situation differently and attribute it to local drainage conditions rather than the Teesta itself. These differing views illustrate how closely river behaviour is observed and discussed by the communities living beside it.
The confluence remains a lively place where fishing, farming, river transport, and everyday conversations unfold against the backdrop of flowing water, birds, and open floodplains. At the same time, one concern was impossible to ignore. Despite its remarkable natural beauty, parts of the riverbank are increasingly affected by litter left behind by visitors. Plastic packaging, bottles, and other waste are gradually changing the character of a place that deserves far greater care.
Standing where the Karala finally joins the Teesta, it was easy to see that this landscape is shaped not only by rivers, but also by the continuous interaction between nature, people, and an environment that is always evolving.
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